Last weekend, Jack and I cut the formica counter top, used the router to cut the openings. It was perfect. We also built the outside frame for the cabinets allowing me to work on a detailed design that incorporates the 'ledges' above the wheel wells. I ordered a Rev-a-Shelf two drawer unit and will wait unit it arrives to make any final adjustments to the height of the counter top.
Yesterday, we install the hot water heater, the water inlet, and the kitchen faucet, and went on two runs to the hardware store for parts. PEX is a wonderful thing. At the end of the day, I am returning the plastic RV kitchen and getting a brass version of the water inlet unit. Both are leaking. Buy quality around plumbing otherwise you will ultimately spend more time and money in solving problems poor quality creates.
John talked me out of permanently installing the water heater to the front of the house and devised a quick release system for all the water hoses that allows the heater to be not connected and still have water to the kitchen sink.
Wednesday, December 7, 2016
Wednesday, November 30, 2016
Monday, November 14, 2016
Wednesday, October 26, 2016
AC and DC tested! Front and back Beds ready for Cushions.
The camping mat served its purpose when guests arrived. Martha Cunningham is fearlessly sewing the covers for the memory foam mattresses. Guests help attach the storage covers to the bed frames using piano style hinges. They work well!
Jack came over and successfully cut individual pieces of cedar for the front and back fascia. Awesome. After the ends are sealed, I'll attach them for a final photo.
Lastly, John worked confirmed the AC and DC circuits are working. We learned that when you have a subpanel the ground and neutral wires are NOT suppose to be together as you would in a primary fuse box. I'm happy to know we have lights when I get a battery ordered. The DC plan has been evolving. Separating DC and AC eliminates an inverter and converter. I have a Vector battery charger that will charge the battery when plugged shore power is available. You do need to push the start button, so it isn't entirely automatic. All lighting is DC. There are a few more outlets and switches to install and test.
One battery should be sufficient. I am buying an Optima #8052-161 BlueTop Deep Cycle Marine Battery with 75 Amp hours.
Jack came over and successfully cut individual pieces of cedar for the front and back fascia. Awesome. After the ends are sealed, I'll attach them for a final photo.
Lastly, John worked confirmed the AC and DC circuits are working. We learned that when you have a subpanel the ground and neutral wires are NOT suppose to be together as you would in a primary fuse box. I'm happy to know we have lights when I get a battery ordered. The DC plan has been evolving. Separating DC and AC eliminates an inverter and converter. I have a Vector battery charger that will charge the battery when plugged shore power is available. You do need to push the start button, so it isn't entirely automatic. All lighting is DC. There are a few more outlets and switches to install and test.
One battery should be sufficient. I am buying an Optima #8052-161 BlueTop Deep Cycle Marine Battery with 75 Amp hours.
Sunday, October 23, 2016
Windows installed, interior walls mostly up, electrical challenges
Progress!
The Windows were easy to install and it allowed me to get the interior T&G started. It's looking like a cabin. We also finished the storage area beneath the bed with hinged tops. My old friend and guest from Colorado, Matt, helped sand, shellac and attach the hinged tops to the bed frames.
The electrical caused a bit of a challenge for my neighbor John. Every time we plugged into shore power, a circuit breaker was thrown. Apparently there is a common practice to put the two put the neutral and ground in an electrical box together; however, in a sub panel (which is in the gypsy wagon), doing so is not acceptable. After separating them, all is good. We are over a big hurdle. I'm buying the marine battery today.
Lastly, Jack (the numbers guy) came and got all the pieces cut to create a curved facia board (made of cedar) for the front band back of the gypsy wagon. He is math skills are amazing. Sadly, many of the cuts varied between 3 and 5 degrees. The creation of a template on a 4x8 sheet of thermo ply was a so very useful. The job took half the time expected!
The Windows were easy to install and it allowed me to get the interior T&G started. It's looking like a cabin. We also finished the storage area beneath the bed with hinged tops. My old friend and guest from Colorado, Matt, helped sand, shellac and attach the hinged tops to the bed frames.
The electrical caused a bit of a challenge for my neighbor John. Every time we plugged into shore power, a circuit breaker was thrown. Apparently there is a common practice to put the two put the neutral and ground in an electrical box together; however, in a sub panel (which is in the gypsy wagon), doing so is not acceptable. After separating them, all is good. We are over a big hurdle. I'm buying the marine battery today.
Lastly, Jack (the numbers guy) came and got all the pieces cut to create a curved facia board (made of cedar) for the front band back of the gypsy wagon. He is math skills are amazing. Sadly, many of the cuts varied between 3 and 5 degrees. The creation of a template on a 4x8 sheet of thermo ply was a so very useful. The job took half the time expected!
Tuesday, October 18, 2016
Interior: Started install T&G Interior Walls. Built Bed Frames and Utility Cabinet.
Need to push the pedal to the metal.
Built the frame for both twin beds using 2x2s.
Finished the frame for the utility closet.
Started insulating and putting up knotty pine T&G planks. They are about 1/4" thick. I am using a semi-gloss polyurethane, two coats before installing. I purchased 140 sq ft.
Built the frame for both twin beds using 2x2s.
Finished the frame for the utility closet.
Started insulating and putting up knotty pine T&G planks. They are about 1/4" thick. I am using a semi-gloss polyurethane, two coats before installing. I purchased 140 sq ft.
New Electrical Requirements
Learned the gypsy wagon should have five running lights along the top. We ran speaker wire from the front tongue. Also decided to have the DC lights powered from the car.
It appears I do not need an inverter since we are keeping the AC and DC separately.
Ordered a 12V battery charger.
Installed a locked plug RV outlet to bring 120V inside.
It appears I do not need an inverter since we are keeping the AC and DC separately.
Ordered a 12V battery charger.
Installed a locked plug RV outlet to bring 120V inside.
Spray Green Foam in Thermo Ply Walls
I used Foam It Green #102. It covered the walls well and did not over spray. I really protected the beautiful ceiling with plastic drop cloths attached with double sided tape. It was easy to apply but the price was expensive. After finishing, I realized the thermal ply is flexible and it may have been better to use open cell foam. I used closed cell so the wall has more rigidity but believe using 1" insulation, cut to fit, would have been just fine. I used the Dremel to trim the excess foam.
Now the walls are insulated, I can install the windows on the long walls and start putting up the interior T&G.
Now the walls are insulated, I can install the windows on the long walls and start putting up the interior T&G.
Completed Roof Prep
After the spruce T&G was nailed to the curved rafters, 1x2s were run lengthwise and 3/4" ply cut into 1 1/2" strips were used as furring strips. The ply was glued and screwed into the rafters. Over the course of two days, we cut 3/4" pink insulation board to fit and used 3/8" ply sheating over the insulation. We thought ply would bend easier than it did and would use 1/4" ply next time. Glue and screws were put every 6-8"s around the edges of the sheeting.
On top of the sheathing, about 45 feet (3x15') of Grace Water and Ice Shield was installed. The pans will need to be added after the carport roof is raised 1.5"
On top of the sheathing, about 45 feet (3x15') of Grace Water and Ice Shield was installed. The pans will need to be added after the carport roof is raised 1.5"
Sunday, September 25, 2016
Spruce Ceiling T&G Installed
I ordered 14' spruce 1x6 T&G. I wished I had found thinner material. I used lacquer and gave each board two coats.
Sunday, September 18, 2016
First window and cedar siding installed
Picked up the cedar siding on Thursday and used an clear oil sealer on the front and back of each piece. It takes long to soak into the wood than the lacquerer did on the rafters.
The nails for cedar siding were a big issue. I found an instruction guide online and they spec'd 6D, 2" nails with textured heads. They needed to be Stainless steel or hot galvanized. I drove an hour to get these nails because they are not carried in a local store. On Saturday, the first nail drove in where the instructions indicated broke the tongue off .... even AFTER drilling a small pilot hole. I can go on and on, but it took five trips to various stores to finally settle on 2", 16 gauge, stainless steel nails I could use with a nailing gun. No more problems.
On the front of the trailer, where wind and rain can easily penetrate the exterior siding while in transit, I decide to cover the wall sheathing with Grace Watersheild and created a rain sheding wall with 1/4" furrings trips applied over the Grace Watershield. The cedar siding was nailed to the furring strips on the tongue of the T&G cedar boards.
The window was installed as usual and is undoubtedly watertight.
To ensure the siding is securely attached, I am going to use screws on the corners. I found SS screws at home depot: Simpson Strong-Tie, 1-5/8 in. Lobed Flat-Head Stainless Steel Multi-Purpose Wood Screw. The smaller the gage number the smaller the screw diameter (opposite of nails and wire diameter, sheesh).
The nails for cedar siding were a big issue. I found an instruction guide online and they spec'd 6D, 2" nails with textured heads. They needed to be Stainless steel or hot galvanized. I drove an hour to get these nails because they are not carried in a local store. On Saturday, the first nail drove in where the instructions indicated broke the tongue off .... even AFTER drilling a small pilot hole. I can go on and on, but it took five trips to various stores to finally settle on 2", 16 gauge, stainless steel nails I could use with a nailing gun. No more problems.
On the front of the trailer, where wind and rain can easily penetrate the exterior siding while in transit, I decide to cover the wall sheathing with Grace Watersheild and created a rain sheding wall with 1/4" furrings trips applied over the Grace Watershield. The cedar siding was nailed to the furring strips on the tongue of the T&G cedar boards.
The window was installed as usual and is undoubtedly watertight.
To ensure the siding is securely attached, I am going to use screws on the corners. I found SS screws at home depot: Simpson Strong-Tie, 1-5/8 in. Lobed Flat-Head Stainless Steel Multi-Purpose Wood Screw. The smaller the gage number the smaller the screw diameter (opposite of nails and wire diameter, sheesh).
Curved Rafters Finished and Installed
The rafters were a enduring project. After getting them built and cut to the same length, it took weeks before I was able to sand them and lacquer them. My guess is that it too hour to construct each rafter, sand each one and apply two coats of lacquer.
Instead of cutting a birdsmouth, we simply used Simpson Ties. Smaller ones worked well, putting in four screws in each end of the rafter seem to secure them well. They are roughly 2' feet on enter with the front and back Rafters are inside the wagon. Only the porch rafter will be outside the wagon. I decided to have the porch only 3-4 inches beyond the end of the trailer.
I thought I wanted to see the rafter tails from the outside, However, after looking at many pictures, I like the appearance of a fascia board. So, in planning the roof, one needs to plan for the additional 3/4" for the fascia board since it has to be installed before the drip edge.
Instead of cutting a birdsmouth, we simply used Simpson Ties. Smaller ones worked well, putting in four screws in each end of the rafter seem to secure them well. They are roughly 2' feet on enter with the front and back Rafters are inside the wagon. Only the porch rafter will be outside the wagon. I decided to have the porch only 3-4 inches beyond the end of the trailer.
I thought I wanted to see the rafter tails from the outside, However, after looking at many pictures, I like the appearance of a fascia board. So, in planning the roof, one needs to plan for the additional 3/4" for the fascia board since it has to be installed before the drip edge.
Sunday, August 28, 2016
Electrical Planned
Now that the wall framing is complete, the electrical was planned. As always, DC and AC electrical complicates the plan. For the Gypsy wagon, we are planning:
The bench was designed and built for the electrical apparatus.
- All lights to be run on DC. Apparently you can use regular recepticles with DC light bulbs. I have a swag lamp over the dining room table, two wall sconces above the head of the beds, a light above the kitchen countertop, and a outside porch light.
- There are two DC outlets with USB chargers near each bed.
- AC outlets will available at the dining room table, for the Air Conditioner, one embedded in the kitchen counter, and one in three of the four OUTSIDE corners.
- On the porch, there will be a battery box outside.
- Inside a bench, there will be a inverter/switch unit, the DC fuse box, and the AC breaker box.
The bench was designed and built for the electrical apparatus.
Wall Framing
Yesterday, a crew of four assembled most of the other three walls in a matter of 4-5 hours. Everyone was quite impressed with the rigidity of the structure even before the side sheathing is on. I thought we would build four walls and then assemble them; however, we actually built the back wall (with the door) and used that as the template for the front wall. Once complete and put in place, we built the side wall framing between the front and back walls.
The next step is to finish the door header and cut the opening so we can get inside easily.
On a second weekend, we finished the door header, matching the curve of the roof, and cut the opening so we can get inside by walking through the door opening.
Installing the thermal ply side walls were easy. I glued and nailed the pieces to the framing. The siding will be screwed or ring shank nails used with construction glue.
Windows and the door opening was routed out with a plunge router bit. I have said before, the purchase of the router is worth simplifying this task.
We will need to add a few more nailers to support the inside T&G paneling and to support the exterior siding beside the side windows.
The next step is to finish the door header and cut the opening so we can get inside easily.
On a second weekend, we finished the door header, matching the curve of the roof, and cut the opening so we can get inside by walking through the door opening.
Installing the thermal ply side walls were easy. I glued and nailed the pieces to the framing. The siding will be screwed or ring shank nails used with construction glue.
Windows and the door opening was routed out with a plunge router bit. I have said before, the purchase of the router is worth simplifying this task.
We will need to add a few more nailers to support the inside T&G paneling and to support the exterior siding beside the side windows.
Sunday, August 7, 2016
Floor almost done; lower walls cut.
Now that the ply is cut I can see that 10" horizontal ledges initially planned are too wide and believe it would force the total width of the roof beyond the fenders. I do not want to do that. I'm going to buy brackets that are 5.5"deep and sell my 7.5" deep brackets on Ebay. Here are the ones I want: Avery-Wrought-Iron-Bracket-8-Triple-Center-Brace-mediterranean-brackets
Tuesday, August 2, 2016
Highly water resistent bottom
Interesting problem, perhaps solved. I was excited when my neighbor suggested using Thermo Ply as a light weight, water resistant panel which will face the road. Then he suggested painting a truck liner to really make the bottom durable. So, last weekend we attached the thermal ply to the bottom of the floor, taped the seams with Gorilla tape and then sealed it with two coats of xxx
Then we used Thermo ply to build the water-resistant sides.
Then we used Thermo ply to build the water-resistant sides.
Sunday, July 10, 2016
Trailer has arrived
On Friday I removed the 7th and final rafter from the mold. I need to finish planing, sanding and sealing them. Again, maybe next weekend that process will be started. I want to put several coats of sealer on the rafters so it will be time consuming.
Sunday, July 3, 2016
Trailer coming soon...final questions
This past weekend, Jack and I finished planing the fir boards. Each of the 3/8 rough cut has ended up being 1/4" at most. We're using about 11-12 slices per rafter. Now all boards to laminate are ready to laminate. We finished laminating rafter #5. Two more to go.
The trailer company is also working on July 4th-- and working my trailer! Two questions / issues are being discussed:
(1) where do you put a spare tire and a battery box? Here is what I hope will be possible: http://teardropsnw.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Tongue-Box-Spare-Tire.jpg
(2) I'm not a fan of aluminum looking trailers, I prefer black. So I'm asking Tom if this can be powder coated. If not, I may have to get over it. The rough iron supports are black and it would be nice if the trailer was too. I guess I could spray them silver but the look just won't be the same. What we will do for appearance sakes.
It is amazing working on interior details. The smaller the tiny house, the more planning is required. Details! I'm working on many phases all at once. We finished 80% of the dining table / utility closet this weekend, too. The design is complicated. We'll have to do a video just on it. Above the dining room table, I'm planning to install a stained glass swag lamp unless I can figure out how to replace the chain with a pipe/extension. Additionally, to keep the theme going, I hope to get a stained glass window for the door: http://www.alpineglass.com/shop/images/unknown/dragonfly.gif
The trailer company is also working on July 4th-- and working my trailer! Two questions / issues are being discussed:
(1) where do you put a spare tire and a battery box? Here is what I hope will be possible: http://teardropsnw.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Tongue-Box-Spare-Tire.jpg
(2) I'm not a fan of aluminum looking trailers, I prefer black. So I'm asking Tom if this can be powder coated. If not, I may have to get over it. The rough iron supports are black and it would be nice if the trailer was too. I guess I could spray them silver but the look just won't be the same. What we will do for appearance sakes.
It is amazing working on interior details. The smaller the tiny house, the more planning is required. Details! I'm working on many phases all at once. We finished 80% of the dining table / utility closet this weekend, too. The design is complicated. We'll have to do a video just on it. Above the dining room table, I'm planning to install a stained glass swag lamp unless I can figure out how to replace the chain with a pipe/extension. Additionally, to keep the theme going, I hope to get a stained glass window for the door: http://www.alpineglass.com/shop/images/unknown/dragonfly.gif
Sunday, June 26, 2016
Kitchen and Dining Table
25June - Cut a 40x24 counter from 3/4" poplar ply. Then traced and cut the holes for the cooper sink and two burner stove.
Here are the details of items in the kitchen:
(1) Wedgewood Vision 17" Drop-In 2-burner Cook Top. Mfg# 56493
(2) Dura Faucet Non-Metallic Pull-Out RV Kitchen Faucet. DF-PK100
(3) Sinkology SP502-17AC Sisley Undermount Handmade copper Sink 17 In.
(4) Cooler (instead of a refrigerator) https://www.rticcoolers.com/shop/coolers/roto-molded/RTIC-65-White
(5) Rev-A-Shelf 448-TP58-11-1 - Tall Pantry w/ Slide, 11inW x 58in H
(6) RV Concession 10 Gallon Fresh Water Tank / W 12 volt pump kit combo -19"L X 9"W x 14"H
(7) Cooks Standard Wall Mount Pot Rack, 36 by 8-Inch. Painting copper color or bronze color using these instructions: https://www.highettmetal.com.au/blog/aluminium/how-to-paint-cast-aluminium
The counter will be have an 3/4" edge banding then sealed with Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish.
The dining table is made from the same 3/4" ply, but is 17.5"x30" with two 3.5" fold out leafs.
Here are the details of items in the kitchen:
(1) Wedgewood Vision 17" Drop-In 2-burner Cook Top. Mfg# 56493
(2) Dura Faucet Non-Metallic Pull-Out RV Kitchen Faucet. DF-PK100
(3) Sinkology SP502-17AC Sisley Undermount Handmade copper Sink 17 In.
(4) Cooler (instead of a refrigerator) https://www.rticcoolers.com/shop/coolers/roto-molded/RTIC-65-White
(5) Rev-A-Shelf 448-TP58-11-1 - Tall Pantry w/ Slide, 11inW x 58in H
(6) RV Concession 10 Gallon Fresh Water Tank / W 12 volt pump kit combo -19"L X 9"W x 14"H
(7) Cooks Standard Wall Mount Pot Rack, 36 by 8-Inch. Painting copper color or bronze color using these instructions: https://www.highettmetal.com.au/blog/aluminium/how-to-paint-cast-aluminium
The counter will be have an 3/4" edge banding then sealed with Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish.
The dining table is made from the same 3/4" ply, but is 17.5"x30" with two 3.5" fold out leafs.
Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Initial Electrical and Propane Sketches
Initial drawings of utilities of the electrical and gas lines are done but being updated. I am forcing myself to learn DC electric components and now reading a book on DC power on boats! There are a few good websites, too:
http://www.rv-insight.com/RV-Electricity.html
I will put the component drawing here.
Given my past experience, I want a simpler system. Nonetheless, the Air Conditioner requires a dedicated 120V circuit and I want solar for off the grid living.
The A/C is an Air Conditioners and Heater Frigidaire FRA09EPT1 4100 BTUHeat/9000 BTU Cool Portable Air Conditioner with Remote Control. I wanted a wood heater, or worse case, a small propane heater.
I'm going with Go Power! items and there is a combo box with battery charger, inverter and switch...available in Summer of 2016. Tick tock.
http://www.rv-insight.com/RV-Electricity.html
I will put the component drawing here.
Given my past experience, I want a simpler system. Nonetheless, the Air Conditioner requires a dedicated 120V circuit and I want solar for off the grid living.
The A/C is an Air Conditioners and Heater Frigidaire FRA09EPT1 4100 BTUHeat/9000 BTU Cool Portable Air Conditioner with Remote Control. I wanted a wood heater, or worse case, a small propane heater.
I'm going with Go Power! items and there is a combo box with battery charger, inverter and switch...available in Summer of 2016. Tick tock.
Rafters require visit to lumber mill
Those rafters! I burnt one motor out after trying to saw 3/8/" slides of Fir. Bought another saw, realized the same thing would probably happen with the $500 table saw. Not a good idea. So today I took a vacation day to drive to Bartow to try Mac's band saw. After one cut, we bagged the idea and resorted calling lumber mills in the area. The one between Dade City and Zephyrhills agreed to help. I arrived at 4pm and left the mill at 4:30pm...all boards sawed...rough sawed, but sawed. Thank goodness for that planer. I know it was valuable before, but now it became a necessity. Anyone attempting to do this should seriously consider the saw you plan to use. This is a painstaking endeavor. There is more on rafter building forthcoming.
Monday, June 20, 2016
Rafter News
Mac and Martha brought a planer to my house. I took the sides of my one rafter down to consistent wood and it looks good. I also started the second rafter. A few points of for those of you on this path:
1. A planer is definitely necessary. No hand planing is not an option in my opinion.
2. I see why Katy planed each slice before gluing. It reduces the number of thickness variations which cause gaps in the rafter AND reduces the amount of glue required between lamination layers.
3. Consider what you will do with the ample sawdust. Google it.
4. Mac has a band saw that will reduce the sawdust (waste). I'm taking a day off work and driving my Douglass fir to his house to see how the band saw does with creating the slices.
5. 1/2 inch slides is too big for sure. 3/8 might work, 1/4 inch bends easily.
6. Doing 1/2 of a rafter thickness at a time seems to be a good idea.
The end result of my test rafter is good.
I spent a good part of the weekend moving furniture because my bedroom is becoming a humidity controlled storage unit for building supplies.
I've decided to wait until all are made before trimming the rafter tails.
1. A planer is definitely necessary. No hand planing is not an option in my opinion.
2. I see why Katy planed each slice before gluing. It reduces the number of thickness variations which cause gaps in the rafter AND reduces the amount of glue required between lamination layers.
3. Consider what you will do with the ample sawdust. Google it.
4. Mac has a band saw that will reduce the sawdust (waste). I'm taking a day off work and driving my Douglass fir to his house to see how the band saw does with creating the slices.
5. 1/2 inch slides is too big for sure. 3/8 might work, 1/4 inch bends easily.
6. Doing 1/2 of a rafter thickness at a time seems to be a good idea.
The end result of my test rafter is good.
I spent a good part of the weekend moving furniture because my bedroom is becoming a humidity controlled storage unit for building supplies.
I've decided to wait until all are made before trimming the rafter tails.
Saturday, June 18, 2016
Awning Windows
Clad windows are beautiful. My friend Diane at Home Depot ordered three Jeld-wen windows today:
Clad W-2500 Awning Operating 41.25 x 23.25 Qty 2
Clad W-2500 Awning Operating 29.25 x 23.25 Qty 1
To get tempered glass, I had to special order the windows. The windows will have bronze hardware and a bronze frame. They have nail fins, too.
I debated again to choose sliders or awning windows. I once again opted for awning due to the rain factor. Since I am planning on building shutters, I chose not to pay extra for colonial grilles.
Week 1 build - Rafter Form and first Rafter
I bought Dee William's Vardo plans because she explains how to build curved rafters. I wrote her and Katy and both responded. Thanks, ladies! I built my form from 3/4" ply and 2x4's. I bought a shit load of wood clamps. Jack shot a informative video that will give you a bit more information that I won't repeat here.
The date was Saturday, June 11th -- the date we'll use to determine the length of build time. I built the frame before Sunday since the form needed time to cure and had to build it twice due to user error. Regardless, on Sunday we cut and assembled the first rafter. In the process I burnt out the motor of a new Kobalt table saw, thus encouraging me to get the heavy duty Ridgid saw Their heavy duty table say, albeit it expensive, is really great to use.
On Monday, more than 24 hours after we bent the wood in the mold, I took the rafter out of the mold and had wet glue on the bottom side that was touching he plastic tape covering the mold. I left it to dry. I am buying a couple more clamps for the areas that appear to have gaps.
Additionally, Mac has a planer he is loaning me. It works great at taking down he rough sides. He as a Dewalt table planer. So this coming weekend, they will bring the planer so I can get one rafter done -- start to finish--before I invest hours and hours. I can correct any problems. The Douglas Fir to build one rafter is roughly $30, hence the cause for caution. I ordered the wood from a wood craftsman lumber company in Temple Terrace and the wood came from Logan Lumber in Tampa.
For anyone who doesn't want to own a $500 planer, there are cabinet shops that may plane your rafters for a lesser price. The company I contacted has not given me a quote.
A box of sawdust was generated for just one rafter. I think a band saw would be better than a table saw, but I don't have one of them either. Since the blade is thinner you could produce less waste in the form of sawdust and get at least one more slide of usable wood to laminate.
I might add that Dee's bardo spec's 10' Douglas Fir for her 8' wide Vardo. I'm using 8' Fir since my outside wheel well dimensions are 7'. I don't need a lot of overhang, but a couple inches (similar to TheSunflower) makes a big difference in appearance. We're back to the function versus aesthetics trade off.
The date was Saturday, June 11th -- the date we'll use to determine the length of build time. I built the frame before Sunday since the form needed time to cure and had to build it twice due to user error. Regardless, on Sunday we cut and assembled the first rafter. In the process I burnt out the motor of a new Kobalt table saw, thus encouraging me to get the heavy duty Ridgid saw Their heavy duty table say, albeit it expensive, is really great to use.
On Monday, more than 24 hours after we bent the wood in the mold, I took the rafter out of the mold and had wet glue on the bottom side that was touching he plastic tape covering the mold. I left it to dry. I am buying a couple more clamps for the areas that appear to have gaps.
Additionally, Mac has a planer he is loaning me. It works great at taking down he rough sides. He as a Dewalt table planer. So this coming weekend, they will bring the planer so I can get one rafter done -- start to finish--before I invest hours and hours. I can correct any problems. The Douglas Fir to build one rafter is roughly $30, hence the cause for caution. I ordered the wood from a wood craftsman lumber company in Temple Terrace and the wood came from Logan Lumber in Tampa.
For anyone who doesn't want to own a $500 planer, there are cabinet shops that may plane your rafters for a lesser price. The company I contacted has not given me a quote.
A box of sawdust was generated for just one rafter. I think a band saw would be better than a table saw, but I don't have one of them either. Since the blade is thinner you could produce less waste in the form of sawdust and get at least one more slide of usable wood to laminate.
I might add that Dee's bardo spec's 10' Douglas Fir for her 8' wide Vardo. I'm using 8' Fir since my outside wheel well dimensions are 7'. I don't need a lot of overhang, but a couple inches (similar to TheSunflower) makes a big difference in appearance. We're back to the function versus aesthetics trade off.
Aluminum Trailer and General Construction Considerations
Shorty built her tiny house on a aluminum trailer since she was planning on using it to attend many festivals and events. I followed her lead, even though she said she probably wouldn't have done it again. Aluminum utility trailers are unique and more expensive. I approached the same guy who built hers and he declined a second chance. My assumption is that he may have lost money or at best broke even since her trailer was indeed custom. My search which has taken several months landed me back on I75 North in Ocala. After providing specs and making minor changes (per Dee Williams' trailer design), I ordered my trailer. And given its simplicity, the trailer should be done in June. It should be noted that Dee specs the ribs on the trailer to be welded on the bottom of the farme instead of 2.5 inches from the top of the frame where 2x6 decking would typically reside. The idea is that you can better insulate the floor. My last change was to add an utility box made of aluminum on the tongue of the trailer and I squared off the wheel wells.
Weight is the focus. I expect this trailer to weigh about 2/3 pounds as it's steel counterpart...roughly 500 lbs. I want a single axle and will use the last 2' as the deck, similar to Jay Shafer's Tumbleweed designs. The cost of my 7x12' trailer will be roughly $3000.
The owner of Texas Trailers in No. Gainesville at least was willing to bid on the trailer. They CAN build aluminum trailers, they just don't do it often. The bid was higher and I'm more confident in ATP's capability since aluminum trailers are their main business.
No one will believe the number of hours of research required. I need a waterproof/resistant bottom and research about plywood and alternatives. Did you know that a 3/4" 4'x8' ply is 60 lbs? For my current design, this would mean 500 lbs in plywood. That sent me back to the drawing board to look for lighter construction techniques...and I'm considering a aluminum frame instead of wood studs. Now finding a aluminum welder that is local is the current challenge (see http://tinyhouseblog.com/tiny-house-concept/towable-gypsy-wagon/ for an example frame. This is a steel frame made of 3/4" square tube.) I had decided to use cedar -- a very light wood but having seen what this guy did with 1/4" ply makes me consider that alternative. Perhaps a light colored transparent cedar stain would be as durable and attractive. Anyway, Cedar needs to breath more than most siding choices and there is a 16 page document on how to install cedar siding (http://www.realcedar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/installingsiding.pdf). I am exploring the use of interior sheathing on the walls, 2x2 studs and closed cell insulation together to minimize the weight and strength of the walls. I want insulation to save energy, even though the total space is so small it doubt it makes a huge difference.
I seem to over engineer everything I build. Did you see my Tiny House Chicken House? I worked hard to make it light weight (it is movable)...and I still can barley pull it by hand. Could there be some deep psychological issue?
No one will believe the number of hours of research required. I need a waterproof/resistant bottom and research about plywood and alternatives. Did you know that a 3/4" 4'x8' ply is 60 lbs? For my current design, this would mean 500 lbs in plywood. That sent me back to the drawing board to look for lighter construction techniques...and I'm considering a aluminum frame instead of wood studs. Now finding a aluminum welder that is local is the current challenge (see http://tinyhouseblog.com/tiny-house-concept/towable-gypsy-wagon/ for an example frame. This is a steel frame made of 3/4" square tube.) I had decided to use cedar -- a very light wood but having seen what this guy did with 1/4" ply makes me consider that alternative. Perhaps a light colored transparent cedar stain would be as durable and attractive. Anyway, Cedar needs to breath more than most siding choices and there is a 16 page document on how to install cedar siding (http://www.realcedar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/installingsiding.pdf). I am exploring the use of interior sheathing on the walls, 2x2 studs and closed cell insulation together to minimize the weight and strength of the walls. I want insulation to save energy, even though the total space is so small it doubt it makes a huge difference.
I seem to over engineer everything I build. Did you see my Tiny House Chicken House? I worked hard to make it light weight (it is movable)...and I still can barley pull it by hand. Could there be some deep psychological issue?
In the beginning
Officially, I guess this is my third Tiny House project. Most of you have seen The Sunflower being born and this is the new blog describing the build of a gypsy wagon, with an exactly opposite goal. The Sunflower was built heavy and strong, weighing in above 9000lbs at completion. The yet unnamed gypsy wagon needs to be 2500 lbs loaded. This presents all new challenges, so once again, I have invested hours and hour of research and revisited many of the previous topics with new eyes.
Additionally, a few new constraints make this different as well. First, there is a timeline. I have already sent my application to join the Florida Tiny House Festival in mid-November 2016. Second, I exchanged the Tundra for an Outback. Lastly, the gypsy wagon is going to depart from their historical breathers by NOT being bright, colorful and gay. This gypsy wagon you should be able to drive by and perhaps not notice, or if you do, your mind may think 'shed'.
Begin with end in mind. This is the closest to what I want to build:
http://pin.it/pRTn7ea
And just for further background, I thought I might remind folks of the definition of a gypsy:
Additionally, a few new constraints make this different as well. First, there is a timeline. I have already sent my application to join the Florida Tiny House Festival in mid-November 2016. Second, I exchanged the Tundra for an Outback. Lastly, the gypsy wagon is going to depart from their historical breathers by NOT being bright, colorful and gay. This gypsy wagon you should be able to drive by and perhaps not notice, or if you do, your mind may think 'shed'.
Begin with end in mind. This is the closest to what I want to build:
http://pin.it/pRTn7ea
And just for further background, I thought I might remind folks of the definition of a gypsy:
- 1.a member of a traveling people with dark skin and hair who speak Romany and traditionally live by seasonal work, itinerant trade, and fortune-telling. Gypsies are now found mostly in Europe, parts of North Africa, and North America, but are believed to have originated in South Asia.
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